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These are telling statements. Chapter 5 looks at mashers or sexually aggressive men who followed women through the retail district, especially by theaters, department stores, and hotels. Permissions Icon Permissions.

Before the mayor ed the ordinance, a group of women staged a protest at a prominent theater, refusing to take off their hats. Search Menu. As women increasingly shopped in department stores and met friends at downtown restaurants, theaters, and grand hotels, some men became uneasy with their presence.

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Oxford Academic. Volume Article. Some claimed the skirts crowded the downtown sidewalks and elevators. And third, they and high-society women attended cultural events and met friends in the tearooms and restaurants. Accordingly, hotels invested in antimashing efforts, removing billiard rooms and armchairs in their hallways.

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Businessmen clearly realized the importance of women consumers. View Metrics. J ulie K. S loan. This time, though, the press sided with the women. : aknupfer juno. alerts Article activity alert. Instead, newspaper editorials applied social pressure, insinuating that women might be more interested in fashion than social reform and even suffrage. I would have liked to have seen further discussion of how advertisers appealed to women shoppers.

With the rise of department stores and other outlets, women became responsible for nearly 8 percent of consumer spending.

It furthers the University's objective of excellence in research, scholarship, and education by publishing worldwide. Anne Meis Knupfer, E mily R emus. New issue alert.

K athryn S chumaker. Further, they pointed out that women shoppers had the same right to be downtown as other citizens. Initially, Chicago lawmakers were silent about the issue.

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J effrey G oulddirector. In. Advanced Search. Close mobile search Article. Unsurprisingly, most naysayers were religious.

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Chapter 1 details how State Street became a female landscape in the late s for three reasons: Women had historically been in charge of household finances. In the end, the solution was simple: women adopted the new style of smaller hats or none at all, and theaters offered hat-checking services. Remus might have discussed such reform activities in more depth as a counterpoint. But it failed in large part because they knew it would be difficult to enforce. E mily R emus. Department stores hired more floorwalkers and detectives.

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Inretail houses formed the State Street Improvement Association to help relieve traffic congestion. Receive exclusive offers and updates from Oxford Academic. Related articles in Google Scholar.

They recommended reclassifying State Street as a boulevard to limit freight traffic, in opposition to others who suggested a midafternoon shopping curfew for women. This is not to say women did not express their status and class through cultural and social practices, however. Select Format Select format.

Perhaps they were silent about these reforms because they were interested in substantive ones. Some planners suggested a shopping curfew for women shoppers to ease the congestion on State Street. Inthe Illinois legislature, following the lead of several states, considered a ban on the hats.

Businessmen and officials were also concerned about traffic congestion, especially during rush hour, as chapter 6 explains.

Most of the debate occurred in magazines, newspapers, and speeches during the s. Indeed, this was a growing industry and one upon which retailers relied. Purdue University Emerita. Advance article alerts. Download all slides. Skip Nav Destination Article. Issue Section:.

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Citing articles via Google Scholar. Retailers, theater owners, and women had asked the city for more police protection during the s. She does discuss one clubwoman, Frances Macbeth Glessner, in ificant detail. Further, her writing is lively and not without wit.

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Chapter 2 details the hoopskirt war of Why would men be concerned about this popular fashion? In chapter 3, Remus explores the controversy of theater hats. Oxford University Press is a department of the University of Oxford.